Post the Fourteenth: Cape 2, Appliqué Parlay

 

 Okay, so last time we left off with shaping the cape and getting that sewn together all proper-like. This is a mage's cape, so it needs to be fancy. And nothing says fancy like embroidery.

  I don't have my own machine, but buying premade appliqué patches is mercifully easy. These almost always have an iron on backing, but let me tell you a secret from many long years of being in scouts:

 DON'T IRON ON PATCHES.

  Or, rather, don't rely on ironing them. Invariably the glue is cheap and will give out. If you want make sure the appliqué stays put, you have to sew them on.

  I'm sorry.

The under stitching is kind of pretty, in a perverse "wow, that took a moment" way.

  I mean, really sorry. Needle drew blood at least three times and slid under a fingernail at least once.

  But yes. Brew a pot of coffee and buckle up, buttercup. Since the long side hasn't been sewn up yet, I pinned the appliqué patches into place--but only to the top fabric. This way the stitching won't show up on the lining and it will look worlds more professional. For the actual sewing I just used some metallic gold thread of a similar hue and whip stitched those mother truckers into place. 

That's fifteen patches, for those keeping score.

  Can't argue with the results though. With this bit done we can finally top stitch the long sides together.

   With the cape in hand, now we start on the mantle. The pattern pieces were made last time, so next is cutting out the top fabric, lining, and interfacing. For this one the piece needs to be stiff and strong enough to hold the cape and not lose its shape, so I'm using a heavy weight interfacing. 

  Once the pieces are cut out, iron the interfacing to the top fabric. Again, reminder, if your interfacing is a double-sided fusible, don't be like me and forget to put a piece of parchment or wax paper between the interfacing and the ironing board or iron. There. I just saved 20 minutes of your life. You're welcome.

You've already told us that. Why are you telling us that again--ohhh.

   Once everybody's done the fusion dance, start sewing the top fabric pieces together. This should feel really similar to assembling the jacket and vest, just much simpler since we really only have to sew the shoulder seams together.

  Anyhoo, stay stitch pieces at first to hold them together. Stitch proper. Trim seam allowance. Do this for the front and back pieces of the mantle.

 

Ta-daaa!

  Go ahead and assemble the matching lining pieces. Same process as before. Set both pieces to the side for now. We'll get back to them in a moment. 

  Next we make the collar and the cape strap latch-button-thingy. Hang we me here. Promise it'll make sense in a moment.

   

  Since this isn't a formalized pattern, I took a moment to check the collar length and sure enough, it was too long. Would've been nice to catch this back at the pattern stage, but oh well. Still easy enough to fix now.
 

Could've done a thing where we dragged the collar all the way down that front, but ah, nah.

 

  Not great photos, but take your collar piece and stitch right sides together stitching along the sides and top. Leave the bottom edge un-stitched so that once you trim the seam allowance it can be turned right side out and be all collar-y. Give it a good press.

 

That's right. Multiple steps to make a single "strip" of fabric. Welcome to garment making, baby.

 

  Attach the collar to the mantle with pins, checking at least 15 times to make sure the placement is correct. Once mollified, replace the pins with stay stitching. Stitch.

  Now to make this pretty. Grab the lining and line it up to match the mantle. Only stitch around the collar area. 

 

  A different technique will be used to finish up the mantle and give it a nice, clean looking edge. Basically, make more bias tape and sandwich the mantle and lining between. Pin things up and then sew it into place with some invisible thread. 

 

THIS IS JUST LIKE ON THE HAT. JUST MAYBE NOT AS MANY GOD-FORSAKEN PINS.

 

  For the cape latch, sew right sides together, trim seam allowance, and turn right side out. Press and top stitch to hold flat.

 

    FINALLY. Time to assemble everything. 

 

  Tack sew cape to top of mantle, next to collar. Sew cape strap to cape. Fold up and tack sew to cape AND mantle. Use button, same style as jacket buttons, and sew it on the cape strap.

 

  On the opposite side of where the cape was sewn, whip stitch some more appliqué. The piece I chose is in the same style as the cape, but still different enough to keep it from looking boring. Keeps it from looking too lop-sided.

  So how does all of this this stay closed? Clasps!

  These are filigreed like the bead cone earlier, so it's not too hard to take some gold thread and tack it into place. Just lock the clasps, then position, and pin into place. Then sew until secure. For the little flap this mantle has three clasps fit very nicely.

Next time: Running out of time, time to wrap a few things up before packing up.

Material Directory

Gold clasps: JoAnne Fabrics Your Local Sewing Shop

Appliqué: Etsy (CraftDIY66)

Current background music: Keegan Tawa. "Twelve Freedoms." Tessellation.